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(GENESCO LOGO)


(Mark One)
  Form 10-K
þ
  Annual Report Pursuant To
  Section 13 or 15(d) of the
  Securities Exchange Act of 1934
  For the Fiscal Year Ended
  January 29, 2005
 
   
o
  Transition Report Pursuant To
  Section 13 or 15(d) of the
  Securities Exchange Act of 1934
 
   
  Securities and Exchange Commission
  Washington, D.C. 20549
  Commission File No. 1-3083



Genesco Inc.
A Tennessee Corporation
I.R.S. No. 62-0211340
Genesco Park
1415 Murfreesboro Road
Nashville, Tennessee 37217-2895
Telephone 615/367-7000

Securities Registered Pursuant to Section 12(b) of the Act
    Exchanges on which
Title   Registered
Common Stock, $1.00 par value
  New York and Chicago
Preferred Share Purchase Rights
  New York and Chicago

Securities Registered Pursuant to Section 12(g) of the Act
Subordinated Serial Preferred Stock, Series 1
Employees’ Subordinated Convertible Preferred Stock

Indicate by check mark whether the registrant (1) has filed all reports required to be filed by Section 13 or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934 during the preceding 12 months and (2) has been subject to such filing requirements for the past 90 days. Yes þ No o

Indicate by check mark if disclosure of delinquent filers pursuant to Item 405 of Regulation S-K is not contained herein, and will not be contained, to the best of registrant’s knowledge, in definitive proxy or information statements incorporated by reference in Part III of this Form 10-K or any amendment to this Form 10-K. þ

Indicate by check mark whether the registrant is an accelerated filer
(as defined in Exchange Act Rule 12b-2). Yes þ No o

Documents Incorporated by Reference
Portions of the proxy statement for the June 22, 2005 annual meeting of shareholders are incorporated into Part III by reference.



Common Shares Outstanding April 1, 2005 – 22,572,570
The aggregate market value of common stock held by nonaffiliates of the registrant as of July 31, 2004, the last business day of the registrant’s most recently completed second fiscal quarter, was approximately $472,000,000. The market value calculation was determined using a per share price of $21.46, the price at which the common stock was last sold on the New York Stock Exchange on such date. For purposes of this calculation, shares held by nonaffiliates excludes only those shares beneficially owned by officers, directors, and shareholders owning 10% or more of the outstanding common stock (and, in each case, their immediate family members and affiliates).



Table of Contents

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 EX-10.A FIRST AMENDMENT CREDIT AGREEMENT
 EX-10.F FORM OF OPTION AGREEMENT
 EX-10.H 2006 EVA INCENTIVE COMPENSATION PLAN
 EX-10.P DEFFERED INCOME PLAN
 EX-10.Q NON-EMPLOYEE DIRECTOR & NAMED EXECUTIVE OFFICER
 EX-21 SUBSIDIARIES OF THE COMPANY
 EX-24 POWER OF ATTORNEY
 EX-31.1 SECTION 302 CERTIFICATION OF THE CEO
 EX-31.2 SECTION 302 CERTIFICATION OF THE CFO
 EX-32.1 SECTION 906 CERTIFICATION OF THE CEO
 EX-32.2 SECTION 906 CERTIFICATION OF THE CFO
 EX-99 FINANCIAL STATEMENTS

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PART I

ITEM 1, BUSINESS


General


Genesco is a leading retailer of branded footwear, licensed and branded headwear and wholesaler of branded footwear, with net sales for Fiscal 2005 of $1.1 billion. During Fiscal 2005, the Company operated five reportable business segments (not including corporate): Journeys, comprised of Journeys and Journeys Kidz retail footwear chains; Underground Station Group, comprised of the Underground Station and Jarman retail footwear chains; Hat World, comprised of Hat World, Lids, Hat Zone, Cap Connection and Headquarters retail headwear chains; Johnston & Murphy, comprised of Johnston & Murphy retail operations and wholesale distribution; and Dockers Footwear. On April 1, 2004, the Company acquired Hat World Corporation, a leading retailer of licensed and branded headwear. On July 1, 2004, the Company acquired Cap Connection Ltd., a retailer of licensed and branded headwear in Canada.

At January 29, 2005, the Company operated 1,599 retail footwear and headwear stores throughout the United States and Puerto Rico and 19 headwear stores in Canada. It currently plans to open a total of 196 new retail stores in Fiscal 2006. At January 29, 2005, Journeys operated 695 stores, including 41 Journeys Kidz; Underground Station Group operated 229 stores, including 165 Underground Station stores; Hat World operated 552 stores, including 19 Canadian stores, and Johnston & Murphy operated 142 stores and factory stores.

The following table sets forth certain additional information concerning the Company’s retail footwear and headwear stores and leased departments during the five most recent fiscal years:

                                         
    Fiscal     Fiscal     Fiscal     Fiscal     Fiscal  
    2001     2002     2003     2004     2005  
Retail Footwear and Headwear Stores and Leased Departments
                                       
Beginning of year
    679       836       908       991       1,046  
Opened during year
    181       153       97       80       120  
Acquired during year
    -0-       -0-       -0-       -0-       503  
Closed during year
    (24 )     (81 )     (14 )     (25 )     (51 )
 
                             
End of year
    836       908       991       1,046       1,618  
 
                             

The Company also designs, sources, markets and distributes footwear under its own Johnston & Murphy brand and under the licensed Dockers brand to over 900 retail accounts in the United States, including a number of leading department, discount, and specialty stores.

Shorthand references to fiscal years (e.g., “Fiscal 2005”) refer to the fiscal year ended on the Saturday nearest January 31st in the named year (e.g., January 29, 2005). For further information on the Company’s business segments, see Note 15 to the Consolidated Financial Statements included in Item 8 and “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations.” All information contained in “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations” which is referred to in Item 1 of this report is

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incorporated by such reference in Item 1. This report contains forward-looking statements. Actual results may vary materially and adversely from the expectations reflected in these statements. For a discussion of some of the factors that may lead to different results, see “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations.”

Available Information


The Company files reports with the Securities and Exchange Commission (“SEC”), including annual reports on Form 10-K, quarterly reports on Form 10-Q and other reports from time to time. The public may read and copy any materials we file with the SEC at the SEC’s Public Reference Room at 450 Fifth Street, NW, Washington, DC 20549. The public may obtain information on the operation of the Public Reference Room by calling the SEC at 1-800-SEC-0330. The Company is an electronic filer and the SEC maintains an Internet site at http://www.sec.gov that contains the reports, proxy and information statements, and other information filed electronically. Our website address is http://www.genesco.com. Please note that our website address is provided as an inactive textual reference only. We make available free of charge through our website annual reports on Form 10-K, quarterly reports on Form 10-Q, current reports on Form 8-K, and all amendments to those reports as soon as reasonably practicable after such material is electronically filed with or furnished to the SEC. The information provided on our website is not part of this report, and is therefore not incorporated by reference unless such information is otherwise specifically referenced elsewhere in this report.

Segments


Journeys

The Journeys segment accounted for approximately 47% of the Company’s net sales in Fiscal 2005. Operating income attributable to Journeys was $60.1 million in Fiscal 2005, with an operating margin of 11.5%. The Company believes its innovative store formats, mix of well-known brands, new product introductions, and experienced management team provide significant competitive advantages for Journeys.

At January 29, 2005, Journeys operated 695 stores, including 41 Journeys Kidz stores, averaging approximately 1,650 square feet, throughout the United States and Puerto Rico, selling footwear for young men and women and children.

Journeys added 30 net new stores in Fiscal 2005 and comparable store sales were up 5% from the prior fiscal year. Journeys stores, located primarily in the Southeast, Midwest, California, Texas, and Puerto Rico, target customers in the 13-22 year age group through the use of youth-oriented decor and popular music videos. Journeys stores carry predominately branded merchandise across a wide range of prices, including such leading brand names as Converse, Diesel, Timberland and Dr. Martens. From a base of 425 Journeys stores at the end of Fiscal 2001, the Company opened 108 net new Journeys stores in Fiscal 2002, 81 net new stores in Fiscal 2003, 51 net new stores in Fiscal 2004 and 30 net new stores in Fiscal 2005 and plans to open approximately 66 net new Journeys stores in Fiscal 2006.

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Underground Station Group

The Underground Station Group segment, including Underground Station and Jarman retail stores, accounted for approximately 13% of the Company’s net sales in Fiscal 2005. Operating income attributable to Underground Station Group was $7.0 million in Fiscal 2005, with an operating margin of 4.7%.

At January 29, 2005, Underground Station Group operated 229 stores, including 165 Underground Station stores, averaging approximately 1,600 square feet, throughout the United States, selling footwear primarily for men.

Underground Station stores are located primarily in urban areas. Jarman stores are located primarily in urban and suburban areas in the Southeast and Midwest, target male consumers in the 20-35 age group and sell footwear in the mid-price range ($50 to $100). For Fiscal 2005, most of the footwear sold in Underground Station stores was branded merchandise, including such leading brand names as Timberland, Lugz, Diesel and Nike, with the remainder made up of Genesco and private label brands. The product mix at each Underground Station/Jarman store is tailored to match local customer preferences and competitive dynamics. The Company opened 28 net new Underground Station stores in Fiscal 2005 and closed 32 Jarman stores, decreasing the total number of Underground Station/Jarman stores to 229. The 28 net new Underground Station stores included twelve conversions of Jarman retail stores to Underground Station stores. The Company plans to open approximately 26 net new Underground Station stores in Fiscal 2006 and close approximately 14 Jarman stores. For additional information, including with respect to the planned closing or conversion of the Company’s Jarman stores, see “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations” and Note 4 to the Consolidated Financial Statements, included in Item 8.

Hat World

The Hat World segment, including Hat World, Lids, Hat Zone, Cap Connection and Headquarters stores, accounted for approximately 19% of the Company’s net sales in Fiscal 2005, beginning at its acquisition on April 1, 2004. Operating income attributable to Hat World was $30.5 million in Fiscal 2005, with an operating margin of 14.1%.

At January 29, 2005, Hat World operated 552 stores, averaging approximately 700 square feet, throughout the United States, Puerto Rico and Canada. Hat World added 49 net new stores in Fiscal 2005 since being acquired and plans to open approximately 89 net new stores in Fiscal 2006.

The stores, located in malls, airports, street level stores and factory outlet stores nationwide and in Canada, target customers in the mid-teen to mid-20’s age group. In general, the stores offer an assortment of college, MLB, NBA, NFL and NHL teams, as well as other specialty fashion categories.

Johnston & Murphy

The Johnston & Murphy segment, including retail stores, catalog and internet sales and wholesale distribution, accounted for approximately 15% of the Company’s net sales in Fiscal 2005. Operating income attributable to Johnston & Murphy was $9.2 million in Fiscal 2005, with an operating margin of 5.7%. All of the Johnston & Murphy wholesale sales are of the Genesco-

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owned Johnston & Murphy brand and approximately 96% of the Johnston & Murphy retail sales are of Genesco-owned brands.

Johnston & Murphy Retail Operations. At January 29, 2005, Johnston & Murphy operated 142 retail stores and factory stores, averaging approximately 1,550 square feet, throughout the United States selling footwear and accessories for men. Johnston & Murphy retail shops are located primarily in better malls nationwide and sell a broad range of men’s dress and casual footwear and accessories. The Company also sells Johnston & Murphy products directly to consumers through a direct mail catalog and e-commerce websites. Johnston & Murphy stores target business and professional consumers. Retail prices for Johnston & Murphy footwear generally range from $100 to $250. Casual and dress casual products accounted for 34% of total Johnston & Murphy retail sales in Fiscal 2005, with the balance consisting of dress shoes and accessories.

Johnston & Murphy Wholesale Operations. In addition to sales through Company-owned Johnston & Murphy retail shops and factory stores, Johnston & Murphy footwear is sold primarily through better department and independent specialty stores. Johnston & Murphy’s wholesale customers offer the brand’s footwear for dress, dress casual, and casual occasions, with the majority of styles offered in these channels selling from $125-$175.

Dockers Footwear

The Dockers Footwear segment accounted for approximately 6% of the Company’s net sales in Fiscal 2005. Operating income attributable to Dockers was $6.1 million in Fiscal 2005, with an operating margin of 9.6%. Substantially all of the Dockers sales are of footwear marketed under the brand for which Genesco has the exclusive men’s footwear license in the United States since 1991. See “Trademarks and Licenses.” Dockers footwear is marketed through many of the same national retail chains that carry Dockers slacks and sportswear. Suggested retail prices for Dockers footwear generally range from $50 to $80.

Manufacturing and Sourcing


The Company relies primarily on independent third-party manufacturers for production of its footwear products sold at wholesale. The Company sources footwear products from foreign manufacturers located in China, Italy, Mexico, Brazil, Indonesia, Taiwan, India and Portugal. The Company’s retail operations source primarily branded products from third parties, who source primarily overseas.

Competition


Competition is intense in the footwear and headwear industry. The Company’s retail footwear and headwear competitors range from small, locally owned stores to regional and national department stores, discount stores, and specialty chains. The Company also competes with hundreds of footwear wholesale operations in the United States and throughout the world, most of which are relatively small, specialized operations, but some of which are large, more diversified companies. Some of the Company’s competitors have certain resources that are not available to the Company. The Company’s success depends upon its ability to remain competitive with respect to the key factors of style, price, quality, comfort, brand loyalty, and customer service. The location and atmosphere of the Company’s retail stores and the ability to source unique products are additional competitive factors for the Company’s retail operations. Any failure by

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the Company to remain competitive with respect to such key factors could have a material adverse effect on the Company’s business, financial condition, or results of operations.

Trademarks and Licenses


The Company owns its Johnston & Murphy footwear brand through a wholly-owned subsidiary. The Dockers brand footwear line, introduced in Fiscal 1993, is sold under a license agreement granting the exclusive right to sell men’s footwear under the trademark in the United States. The Dockers license agreement, as amended, expires on December 31, 2006, with an option to renew through December 31, 2008. Net sales of Dockers products were $64 million in Fiscal 2005 and $60 million in Fiscal 2004. The Company licenses certain of its footwear brands, mostly in foreign markets. License royalty income was not material in Fiscal 2005.

Wholesale Backlog


Most of the Company’s orders in the Company’s wholesale divisions are for delivery within 150 days. Because most of the Company’s business is at-once, the backlog at any one time is not necessarily indicative of future sales. As of March 26, 2005, the Company’s wholesale operations had a backlog of orders, including unconfirmed customer purchase orders, amounting to approximately $22.9 million, compared to approximately $15.3 million on March 27, 2004. The backlog is somewhat seasonal, reaching a peak in spring. The Company maintains in-stock programs for selected anticipated high volume sales.

Employees


Genesco had approximately 9,600 employees at January 29, 2005, approximately 9,500 of whom were employed in operations and 105 in corporate staff departments. Retail footwear and headwear stores employ a substantial number of part-time employees and approximately 5,250 of the Company’s employees were part-time.

Properties


At January 29, 2005, the Company operated 1,618 retail footwear and headwear stores throughout the United States, Puerto Rico and Canada. New shopping center store leases typically are for a term of approximately 10 years and new factory outlet leases typically are for a term of approximately five years. Both typically provide for rent based on a percentage of sales against a fixed minimum rent based on the square footage leased.

The Company operates four distribution centers (three of which are owned and one is leased) aggregating approximately 800,000 square feet. Three of the facilities are located in Tennessee and one in Indiana. The Company’s executive offices and the offices of its footwear operations, which are leased, are in Nashville, Tennessee where Genesco occupies approximately 76% of a 295,000 square foot building. The offices of the Company’s headwear operations, which are leased, are in a 43,000 square foot building in Indianapolis, Indiana and a 1,800 square foot building in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.

The lease on the Company’s Nashville, Tennessee office expires in April 2017 with an option to renew for an additional five years. The lease on the Company’s Indianapolis, Indiana office expires in May 2015 and the lease on the Edmonton, Alberta, Canada office expires in July 2007. The Company believes that all leases of properties that are material to its operations may be renewed on terms not materially less favorable to the Company than existing leases.

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Environmental Matters


The Company’s former manufacturing operations and the sites of those operations are subject to numerous federal, state, and local laws and regulations relating to human health and safety and the environment. These laws and regulations address and regulate, among other matters, wastewater discharge, air quality and the generation, handling, storage, treatment, disposal, and transportation of solid and hazardous wastes and releases of hazardous substances into the environment. In addition, third parties and governmental agencies in some cases have the power under such laws and regulations to require remediation of environmental conditions and, in the case of governmental agencies, to impose fines and penalties. Several of the facilities owned by the Company (currently or in the past) are located in industrial areas and have historically been used for extensive periods for industrial operations such as tanning, dyeing, and manufacturing. Some of these operations used materials and generated wastes that would be considered regulated substances under current environmental laws and regulations. The Company currently is involved in certain administrative and judicial environmental proceedings relating to the Company’s former facilities. See “Legal Proceedings.”

ITEM 2, PROPERTIES


See Item 1, Properties.

ITEM 3, LEGAL PROCEEDINGS


Environmental Matters

New York State Environmental Matters

In August 1997, the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (the “Department”) and the Company entered into a consent order whereby the Company assumed responsibility for conducting a remedial investigation and feasibility study (“RIFS”) and implementing an interim remediation measure (“IRM”) with regard to the site of a knitting mill operated by a former subsidiary of the Company from 1965 to 1969. The Company undertook the IRM and RIFS voluntarily, without admitting liability or accepting responsibility for any future remediation of the site. The Company estimates that the cost of conducting the RIFS and implementing the interim remedial measure will be in the range of $6.1 million to $6.3 million, net of insurance recoveries, $2.7 million of which the Company has already paid.

The Company has not ascertained what responsibility, if any, it has for any contamination in connection with the facility or what other parties may be liable in that connection and is unable to predict the extent of its liability, if any, beyond that voluntarily assumed by the consent order. The Company’s voluntary assumption of responsibility for the IRM and the RIFS and its willingness to implement a remedial alternative with respect to the supply wells (described below) were based upon its judgment that such actions were preferable to litigation to determine its liability, if any, for contamination related to the site. The Company intends to continue to evaluate the costs of further voluntary remediation versus the costs and uncertainty of litigation.

As part of its analysis of whether to undertake further voluntary action, the Company has assessed various methods of preventing potential future impact of contamination from the site on two public wells that are in the expected future path of the groundwater plume from the site. The Village of Garden City has proposed the installation at the supply wells of enhanced treatment measures at an estimated cost of approximately $2.6 million, with estimated future costs of up to $2.0 million. In the third quarter of Fiscal 2005, the Company provided for the estimated cost of

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a remedial alternative it considers adequate to prevent such impact and which it would be willing to implement voluntarily. The Village of Garden City has also asserted that the Company is liable for historical costs of treatment at the wells totaling approximately $3.4 million. Because of evidence with regard to when contaminants from the site of the Company’s former operations first reached the wells, the Company believes it should have no liability with respect to such historical costs.

Whitehall Environmental Matters

The Company has performed sampling and analysis of soil, sediments, surface water, groundwater and waste management areas at the Company’s former Volunteer Leather Company facility in Whitehall, Michigan.

The Company has submitted to the Michigan Department of Environmental Quality (“MDEQ”) and provided for certain costs associated with a remedial action plan (the “Plan”) designed to bring the property into compliance with regulatory standards for non-industrial uses. While management believes that the Plan should be sufficient to satisfy applicable regulatory standards with respect to the site, until the Plan is finally approved by MDEQ, management cannot provide assurances that no further remediation will be required, estimate the cost of such remediation or predict whether it will have a material effect on the Company’s financial condition or results of operations.

Related to all outstanding environmental contingencies, the Company had accrued $5.5 million as of January 29, 2005, $2.7 million as of January 31, 2004 and $1.4 million as of February 1, 2003. All such provisions reflect the Company’s estimates of the most likely cost (undiscounted, including both current and noncurrent portions) of resolving the contingencies, based on facts and circumstances as of the time they were made. There is no assurance that relevant facts and circumstances will not change, necessitating future changes to the provisions. Such contingent liabilities are included in the liability arising from provision for discontinued operations on the accompanying balance sheet. Additional pretax provision less insurance proceeds/recoveries realized, totaled approximately $0.9 million, $1.8 million and $0.3 million for Fiscal 2005, 2004 and 2003, respectively. Such amounts were recognized in provision for discontinued operations, net on the accompanying Statements of Earnings included in Item 8.

Insurance Matter

In May 2003, the Company filed a declaratory judgment action in the U. S. District Court for the Middle District of Tennessee against former general liability insurance carriers that underwrote policies covering the Company during periods relevant to the New York State knitting mill matter described above and the matters described above under the caption “Whitehall Environmental Matters.” The action sought a determination that the carriers’ defense and indemnity obligations under the policies extend to the site. During the third quarter of Fiscal 2005, the Company and the carriers reached definitive settlement agreements and the Company received cash payments from the carriers totaling approximately $3.0 million in exchange for releases from liability with respect to the two sites. Net of the insurance proceeds, additional pretax provisions totaling approximately $1.0 million for future remediation expenses associated with the New York State knitting mill matter described above and the Whitehall matter described above, are reflected in the loss from discontinued operations for Fiscal 2005.

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Other Matters

Patent Action

In January 2003, the Company was named a defendant in an action filed in the United States District Court for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania, Schoenhaus, et al. vs. Genesco Inc., et al., alleging that certain features of shoes in the Company’s Johnston & Murphy line infringe the plaintiff’s patent, misappropriate trade secrets and involve conversion of the plaintiff’s proprietary information and unjust enrichment of the Company. On January 10, 2005, the court granted summary judgment to the Company on the patent claims, finding that the accused products do not infringe the plaintiff’s patent. The court subsequently stayed the remainder of the case, pending appeal of the summary judgment to the U.S. Court of Appeals for the Federal Circuit.

California Employment Matter

On October 22, 2004, the Company was named a defendant in a putative class action filed in the Superior Court of the State of California, Los Angeles, Schreiner vs. Genesco Inc., et al., alleging violations of California wages and hours laws, and seeking damages of $40 million plus punitive damages. The Company has retained counsel and filed an answer denying the material allegations in the complaint, and intends to defend the matter vigorously.

ITEM 4, SUBMISSION OF MATTERS TO A VOTE OF SECURITY HOLDERS


There were no matters submitted to a vote of security holders during the fourth quarter of Fiscal 2005.

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EXECUTIVE OFFICERS OF THE REGISTRANT


The officers of the Company are generally elected at the first meeting of the board of directors following the annual meeting of shareholders and hold office until their successors have been chosen and qualify. The name, age and office of each of the Company’s executive officers and certain information relating to the business experience of each are set forth below:

Hal N. Pennington, 67, Chairman, President and Chief Executive Officer. Mr. Pennington has served in various roles during his 43 year tenure with Genesco. He was vice president-wholesale for Johnston & Murphy from 1990 until his appointment as president of Dockers Footwear in August 1995. He was named president of Johnston & Murphy in February 1997 and named senior vice president in June 1998. Mr. Pennington was named executive vice president, chief operating officer and a director of the Company as of November 4, 1999. Mr. Pennington was named president of the Company as of November 1, 2000. He has responsibility for operational support functions including human resources and information systems, in addition to oversight of the Company’s operating divisions. Mr. Pennington was named chief executive officer of the Company as of April 25, 2002. Mr. Pennington was named chairman as of October 28, 2004.

James S. Gulmi, 59, Senior Vice President — Finance and Chief Financial Officer. Mr. Gulmi was employed by Genesco in 1971 as a financial analyst, appointed assistant treasurer in 1974 and named treasurer in 1979. He was elected a vice president in 1983 and assumed the responsibilities of chief financial officer in 1986. Mr. Gulmi was appointed senior vice president — finance in January 1996.

James C. Estepa, 53, Senior Vice President. Mr. Estepa joined the Company in 1985 and in February 1996 was named vice president operations of Genesco Retail, which included the Jarman Shoe Company, Journeys, Boot Factory and General Shoe Warehouse. Mr. Estepa was named senior vice president operations of Genesco Retail in June 1998. He was named president of Journeys in March 1999. Mr. Estepa was named senior vice president of the Company in April 2000. He was named president and chief executive officer of the Genesco Retail Group in 2001, assuming additional responsibilities of overseeing Jarman and Underground Station.

Jonathan D. Caplan, 51, Senior Vice President. Mr. Caplan rejoined the Company in October 2002 as chief executive officer of the branded group and president of Johnston & Murphy and was named senior vice president in November 2003. Mr. Caplan first joined the Company in June 1982 and served as president of Genesco’s Laredo-Code West division from December 1985 to May 1992. After that time, Mr. Caplan was president of Stride Rite’s Children’s Group and then its Ked’s Footwear division, from 1992 to 1996. He was vice president, New Business Development and Strategy, for Service Merchandise Corporation from 1997 to 1998. Prior to joining Genesco in October 2002, Mr. Caplan served as president and chief executive officer of Hi-Tec Sports North America beginning in 1998.

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Robert J. Dennis, 51, Senior Vice President. Mr. Dennis joined the Company in April 2004 as chief executive officer of the Company’s newly acquired Hat World Corporation. Mr. Dennis was named senior vice president in June 2004. Prior to joining the Company, Mr. Dennis joined Hat World in 2001 from Asbury Automotive, which he helped build beginning in 1998. Mr. Dennis was a partner with McKinsey and Company, an international consulting firm, from 1984 to 1997.

John W. Clinard, 57, Vice President – Administration and Human Resources. Mr. Clinard has served in various human resources capacities during his 33 year tenure with Genesco. He was named vice president — human resources in June 1997. He was named vice president administration and human resources in November 2000.

Roger G. Sisson, 41, Vice President, Secretary and General Counsel. Mr. Sisson joined the Company in January 1994 as assistant general counsel and was elected secretary in February 1994. He was named general counsel in January 1996. Mr. Sisson was named vice president in November 2003. Before joining the Company, Mr. Sisson was associated with a Nashville law firm for approximately six years.

Mimi Eckel Vaughn, 38, Vice President of Strategy and Business Development. Ms. Vaughn joined the Company in September 2003 in her current position. Prior to joining the Company, Ms. Vaughn was executive vice president of business development and marketing, and acting chief financial officer from 2000 to 2001 for Link2Gov Corporation in Nashville. From 1993 to 1999, she was a senior engagement manager at McKinsey and Company in Atlanta. Prior to joining McKinsey, she held various corporate finance positions at Goldman, Sachs & Co., Wasserstein Perella & Co. Inc. and Drexel Burnham Lambert.

Matthew N. Johnson, 40, Treasurer. Mr. Johnson joined the Company in April 1993 as manager, corporate finance and was elected assistant treasurer in December 1993. He was elected treasurer in June 1996. Prior to joining the Company, Mr. Johnson was a vice president in the corporate and institutional banking division of The First National Bank of Chicago.

Paul D. Williams, 50, Chief Accounting Officer. Mr. Williams joined the Company in 1977, was named director of corporate accounting and financial reporting in 1993 and chief accounting officer in April 1995.

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PART II

ITEM 5, MARKET FOR REGISTRANT’S COMMON EQUITY, RELATED STOCKHOLDER MATTERS AND ISSUER PURCHASES OF EQUITY SECURITIES


The Company’s common stock is listed on the New York Stock Exchange (Symbol: GCO) and the Chicago Stock Exchange. The following table sets forth for the periods indicated the high and low sales prices of the common stock as shown in the New York Stock Exchange Composite Transactions listed in the Wall Street Journal.

                 
Fiscal Year ended January 31   High     Low  
2004 1st Quarter
  $ 17.19     $ 11.82  
2nd Quarter
    19.30       13.63  
3rd Quarter
    19.63       15.90  
4th Quarter
    19.83       14.30  
                 
Fiscal Year ended January 29   High     Low  
2005 1st Quarter
  $ 25.05     $ 17.18  
2nd Quarter
    25.67       19.49  
3rd Quarter
    26.17       18.77  
4th Quarter
    31.39       25.09  

There were approximately 7,150 common shareholders of record on April 1, 2005.

The Company has not paid cash dividends in respect of its common stock since 1973. The Company’s ability to pay cash dividends in respect of its common stock is subject to various restrictions. See Item 7 and Notes 7 and 9 to the Consolidated Financial Statements included in Item 8 for information regarding restrictions on dividends and redemptions of capital stock.

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ITEM 6, SELECTED FINANCIAL DATA


Fiscal years 2001 through 2004 have been restated to reflect adjustments that are further discussed in Note 2 to the Consolidated Financial Statements included in Item 8.

                                         
Financial Summary      
 
In Thousands except per common share data,   Fiscal Year End
financial statistics and other data   2005     2004     2003     2002     2001  
 
Results of Operations Data
                                       
Net sales
  $ 1,112,681     $ 837,379     $ 828,307     $ 746,157     $ 679,337  
Depreciation
    31,266       24,607       21,788       18,348       14,634  
Earnings before interest and taxes
    88,064       51,649       66,279       62,198       59,352  
Pretax earnings from continuing operations
    77,102       44,360       58,409       54,634       52,152  
Earnings from continuing operations
    48,460       29,025       36,192       37,601       32,313  
Discontinued operations (net of tax)
    (211 )     (888 )     (165 )     (1,253 )     (3,233 )
 
Net earnings
  $ 48,249     $ 28,137     $ 36,027     $ 36,348     $ 29,080  
 
Per Common Share Data
                                       
Earnings from continuing operations
                                       
Basic
  $ 2.19     $ 1.32     $ 1.65     $ 1.70     $ 1.49  
Diluted
    1.92       1.24       1.46       1.51       1.33  
Discontinued operations
                                       
Basic
    (.01 )     (.04 )     (.01 )     (.05 )     (.15 )
Diluted
    (.01 )     (.04 )     .00       (.05 )     (.12 )
Net earnings
                                       
Basic
    2.18       1.28       1.64       1.65       1.34  
Diluted
    1.91       1.20       1.46       1.46       1.21  
 
Balance Sheet Data
                                       
Total assets
  $ 635,571     $ 448,313     $ 437,856     $ 380,946     $ 363,988  
Long-term debt
    161,250       86,250       103,245       103,245       103,500  
Non-redeemable preferred stock
    7,474       7,580       7,599       7,634       7,721  
Common shareholders’ equity
    264,591       204,665       172,420       151,047       128,719  
Additions to property and equipment
    39,480       22,540       40,332       51,197       39,342  
 
Financial Statistics
                                       
Earnings before interest and taxes as a percent of net sales
    7.9 %     6.2 %     8.0 %     8.3 %     8.7 %
Book value per share
  $ 11.79     $ 9.42     $ 7.93     $ 6.92     $ 5.94  
Working capital
  $ 176,245     $ 197,569     $ 183,652     $ 166,811     $ 148,033  
Current ratio
    2.4       3.4       3.3       3.5       2.6  
Percent long-term debt to total capitalization
    37.2 %     28.9 %     36.4 %     39.4 %     43.1 %
 
Other Data (End of Year)
                                       
Number of retail outlets*
    1,618       1,046       991       908       836  
Number of employees**
    9,600       6,200       5,700       5,325       4,700  
 


*   Includes 486 Hat World stores in Fiscal 2005 acquired April 1, 2004 and 17 Cap Connection stores acquired July 1, 2004. See Note 3 to the Consolidated Financial Statements. Also includes 57 Nautica Retail leased departments in Fiscal 2001.
 
**   Includes over 2,800 Hat World employees in Fiscal 2005.

Reflected in earnings from continuing operations for Fiscal 2005, 2004, 2003, 2002 and 2001 were restructuring and other charges of $1.2 million, $1.9 million, $2.8 million, $5.4 million and $4.4 million, respectively, including $0.3 million and $1.0 million included in gross margin in Fiscal 2002 and 2001, respectively. See Note 4 to the Consolidated Financial Statements for additional information regarding these charges.

Reflected in earnings from continuing operations for Fiscal 2005 was a favorable tax settlement of $0.5 million and for Fiscal 2005, Fiscal 2004 and 2002 were tax benefits of $0.2 million, $1.1 million and $3.5 million, respectively, resulting from the reversal of previously accrued income taxes.

Long-term debt includes current obligations. In April 2004, the Company entered into new credit facilities totaling $175.0 million. Included in the facility was a $100.0 million term loan used to fund a portion of the Hat World acquisition. In June 2003, the Company issued $86.3 million of 4 1/8% convertible subordinated debentures due 2023. The Company used the proceeds plus additional cash to pay off $103.2 million of its 5 1/2% convertible subordinated notes which resulted in a $2.6 million loss on the early retirement of debt reflected in earnings from continuing operations for Fiscal 2004. See Note 7 to the Consolidated Financial Statements for additional information regarding the Company’s debt.

The Company has not paid dividends on its Common Stock since 1973. See Notes 7 and 9 to the Consolidated Financial Statements for a description of limitations on the Company’s ability to pay dividends.

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ITEM 7, MANAGEMENT’S DISCUSSION AND ANALYSIS OF FINANCIAL CONDITION AND RESULTS OF OPERATIONS


Forward Looking Statements

This discussion and the notes to the Consolidated Financial Statements include certain forward-looking statements, which include statements regarding our intent, belief or expectations and all statements other than those made solely with respect to historical fact. Actual results could differ materially from those reflected by the forward-looking statements in this discussion and a number of factors may adversely affect the forward looking statements and the Company’s future results, liquidity, capital resources or prospects. These factors (some of which are beyond the Company’s control) include:

  •   Weakness in consumer demand for products sold by the Company.
 
  •   Fashion trends that affect the sales or product margins of the Company’s retail product offerings.
 
  •   Changes in the timing of the holidays or in the onset of seasonal weather affecting period to period sales comparisons.
 
  •   Changes in buying patterns by significant wholesale customers.
 
  •   Disruptions in product supply or distribution.
 
  •   Further unfavorable trends in foreign exchange rates and other factors affecting the cost of products.
 
  •   Changes in business strategies by the Company’s competitors (including pricing and promotional discounts).
 
  •   The Company’s ability to open, staff and support additional retail stores on schedule and at acceptable expense levels, to renew leases in existing stores on schedule and at acceptable expense levels and to identify and timely obtain new locations at acceptable expense levels.
 
  •   Variations from expected pension-related charges caused by conditions in the financial markets.
 
  •   The outcome of litigation and environmental matters involving the Company, including those discussed in Note 14 to the Consolidated Financial Statements.

Forward-looking statements reflect the expectations of the Company at the time they are made, and investors should rely on them only as expressions of opinion about what may happen in the future and only at the time they are made. The Company undertakes no obligation to update any forward-looking statement. Although the Company believes it has an appropriate business strategy and the resources necessary for its operations, predictions about future revenue and margin trends are inherently uncertain and the Company may alter its business strategies to address changing conditions.

Overview

The Company is a leading retailer of branded footwear, licensed and branded headwear and wholesaler of branded footwear, operating 1,599 retail footwear and headwear stores throughout the United States and Puerto Rico and 19 headwear stores in Canada as of January 29, 2005. The Company also designs, sources, markets and distributes footwear under its own Johnston & Murphy brand and under the licensed Dockers brand to over 900 retail accounts in the United States, including a number of leading department, discount, and specialty stores. On April 1, 2004, the Company acquired Hat World Corporation (“Hat World”), a leading retailer of licensed and branded headwear operating 533 stores at January 29, 2005. On July 1, 2004, the Company acquired the assets and business of Edmonton, Alberta–based Cap Connection Ltd., a leading

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Canadian specialty retailer of headwear operating 19 stores at January 29, 2005. See “Significant Developments.”

The Company operates five reportable business segments (not including corporate): Journeys, comprised of Journeys and Journeys Kidz retail footwear chains; Underground Station Group, comprised of the Underground Station and Jarman retail footwear chains; Hat World, comprised of Hat World, Lids, Hat Zone, Cap Connection and Headquarters retail headwear operations; Johnston & Murphy, comprised of Johnston & Murphy retail operations and wholesale distribution; and Dockers Footwear.

The Journeys retail footwear stores sell footwear and accessories primarily for 13 – 22 year old men and women. The stores average approximately 1,650 square feet. The Journeys Kidz retail footwear stores sell footwear primarily for younger children, ages five to 12. These stores average approximately 1,400 square feet.

The Underground Station Group retail footwear stores sell footwear and accessories for men and women in the 20 — 35 age group. The Underground Station Group stores average approximately 1,600 square feet. In the fourth quarter of Fiscal 2004, the Company made the strategic decision to close 34 Jarman stores during Fiscal 2005 subject to its ability to negotiate lease terminations. These stores are not suitable for conversion to Underground Station stores. The Company intends to convert the remaining Jarman stores to Underground Station stores and close the remaining Jarman stores not closed in Fiscal 2005 as quickly as it is financially feasible, subject to landlord approval. During Fiscal 2005, 20 Jarman stores were closed and twelve Jarman stores were converted to Underground Station stores.

Hat World retail stores sell licensed and branded headwear to men and women primarily in the mid-teen to mid-20’s age group. These stores average approximately 700 square feet and are located in malls, airports, street level stores and factory outlet stores nationwide and in Canada.

Johnston & Murphy retail stores sell a broad range of men’s dress and casual footwear and accessories to business and professional consumers. These stores average approximately 1,300 square feet and are located primarily in better malls nationwide. Johnston & Murphy shoes are also distributed through the Company’s wholesale operations to better department and independent specialty stores. In addition, the Company sells Johnston & Murphy footwear in factory stores located in factory outlet malls. These stores average approximately 2,400 square feet.

The Company entered into an exclusive license with Levi Strauss and Company to market men’s footwear in the United States under the Dockers® brand name in 1991. The Dockers license agreement was renewed October 22, 2004. The Dockers license agreement, as amended, expires on December 31, 2006 with a Company option to renew through December 31, 2008, subject to certain conditions. The Company uses the Dockers name to market casual and dress casual footwear to men aged 30 to 55 through many of the same national retail chains that carry Dockers slacks and sportswear and in department and specialty stores across the country.

The Company’s net sales increased 32.9% during Fiscal 2005 compared to the prior year. The increase was driven primarily by the addition of new stores (including 533 Hat World stores acquired on April 1, 2004 or opened since April 1, 2004 and 19 Cap Connection stores acquired on July 1, 2004 or opened since July 1, 2004), as well as a 5.4% increase in Dockers Footwear sales and a 3% increase in comparable store sales for all footwear concepts. The same store sales

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increase was primarily due to growth in unit comparable sales in the Journeys business, a moderation in the decline in average selling price in the Journeys and Underground Station businesses. Gross margin increased as a percentage of sales during Fiscal 2005 primarily due to the acquisition of Hat World, improvements in Johnston & Murphy wholesale due to changes in sourcing and less promotional selling, decreased markdowns in the Underground Station Group and Journeys, and improvement in Dockers Footwear’s margin due to a reduction in close out sales compared to last year.

The Company’s strategy is to seek long-term growth by: 1) increasing the Company’s store base, 2) increasing retail square footage, 3) improving comparable store sales, 4) increasing operating margin and 5) enhancing the value of its brands. Our future results are subject to various risks, uncertainties and other challenges, including those discussed under the caption “Forward Looking Statements,” above. Among the most important of these factors are those related to consumer demand. Conditions in the external economy can affect demand, resulting in changes in sales and, as prices are adjusted to drive sales and control inventories, in gross margins. Because fashion trends influencing many of the Company’s target customers (particularly customers of Journeys, Underground Station and Hat World) can change rapidly, the Company believes that its ability to detect and respond quickly to those changes has been important to its success. Even when the Company succeeds in aligning its merchandise offerings with consumer preferences, those preferences may affect results. The Company believes its experience and discipline in merchandising and the buying power associated with its relative size in the industry are important to its ability to mitigate risks associated with changing customer preferences.

Significant Developments

Restatement of Financial Statements

On February 7, 2005, the Office of the Chief Accountant of the SEC issued a letter to the American Institute of Certified Public Accountants expressing its views regarding certain operating lease accounting issues and their application under generally accepted accounting principles (“GAAP”). In light of this letter, the Company’s management initiated a review of the Company’s lease-related accounting methods and determined that the Company’s methods of accounting for (1) amortization of leasehold improvements, (2) leasehold improvements funded by landlord incentives and (3) rent expense prior to commencement of operations and rent payments, while in line with common industry practice, were not in accordance with GAAP. As a result, the Company restated its consolidated financial statements for each of the fiscal years ended January 31, 2004, February 1, 2003 and the first three quarters of Fiscal 2005 included in this Report.

Previously the Company had amortized certain of its leasehold improvements over the lease term, including the first five-year renewal option for initial term leases of 10 years or less. Management determined that the appropriate interpretation of the lease term under Statement of Financial Accounting Standards (“SFAS”) No. 13, “Accounting for Leases,” is the sum of the fixed noncancellable term and any options where, at the inception of the lease, renewal is reasonably assured. Management determined that renewal of the majority of lease terms associated with leasehold improvements whose useful lives included the option period, while expected, were not reasonably assured under SFAS No. 13. Accordingly, the Company accelerated the amortization of those leasehold improvements to coincide with the end of the fixed noncancellable term of the lease, unless the Company would incur an economic penalty for not renewing the lease.

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Additionally, the Company had historically accounted for leasehold improvements funded by landlord incentives as reductions in the cost of the related leasehold improvements reflected in the Consolidated Balance Sheets and the capital expenditures reflected in investing activities in the Consolidated Statements of Cash Flows. Management determined that the appropriate interpretation of Financial Accounting Standards Board Technical Bulletin No. 88-1, “Issues Relating to Accounting for Leases,” requires these incentives to be recorded as deferred rent liabilities in the Consolidated Balance Sheets and as a component of operating activities in the Consolidated Statements of Cash Flows. Additionally, this adjustment resulted in a reclassification of the deferred rent amortization from depreciation and amortization expense to rent expense, both included in selling and administrative expenses in the Consolidated Statements of Earnings and included as an additional cost component of capital expenditures in investing activities in the Consolidated Statements of Cash Flows. This adjustment also resulted in additional impairment charges reflected in restructuring and other, net in the Consolidated Statements of Earnings.

Finally, the Company had historically recognized rent holiday periods on a straight-line basis over the lease term commencing on the related retail store opening date. The store opening date coincides with the commencement of business operations, which is the intended use of the property. Management re-evaluated Financial Accounting Standards Board Technical Bulletin No. 85-3, “Accounting for Operating Leases with Scheduled Rent Increases,” and determined that, consistent with the letter issued by the Office of the Chief Accountant, the lease term should include the pre-opening period of construction, renovation, fixturing and merchandise placement (typically one to two months prior to store opening). The correction of this error requires the Company to record additional deferred rent in other long-term liabilities and to adjust retained earnings in the Consolidated Balance Sheets, as well as to restate rent expense in selling and administrative expenses in the Consolidated Statements of Earnings.

The cumulative effect of these corrections is a reduction to retained earnings of $2.5 million (net of taxes of $1.6 million) as of the beginning of Fiscal 2003 and reductions to retained earnings of $0.2 million (net of taxes of $0.1 million), $0.6 million (net of taxes of $0.4 million) and $0.3 million (net of taxes of $0.2 million) for the fiscal years ended 2005, 2004 and 2003, respectively. These adjustments did not have any impact on the overall cash flows of the Company.

See Note 2 to the Consolidated Financial Statements included in Item 8 for a summary of the effects of this restatement on the Company’s Consolidated Balance Sheet as of January 31, 2004, as well as the Company’s Consolidated Statements of Earnings and Cash Flows for fiscal years 2004 and 2003. The accompanying discussion in Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations gives effect to these corrections.

We did not amend our previously filed Annual Reports on Form 10-K or Quarterly Reports on Form 10-Q for the restatement, and the financial statements and related financial information contained in such reports should no longer be relied upon.

Cap Connection Acquisition

On July 1, 2004, the Company acquired the assets and business of Edmonton, Alberta-based Cap Connection Ltd. The purchase price for the Cap Connection business was approximately $1.7 million, subject to adjustment. At January 29, 2005, the Company operated 19 Cap Connection and Headquarters stores, in Alberta, British Columbia and Ontario, Canada.

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Hat World Acquisition

On April 1, 2004, the Company completed the acquisition of Hat World Corporation for a total purchase price of approximately $179 million, including adjustments for $12.6 million of net cash acquired, a $1.2 million subsequent working capital adjustment and direct acquisition expenses of $2.8 million. Hat World is a leading specialty retailer of licensed and branded headwear. As of January 29, 2005, it operated 533 stores across the U.S. under the Hat World, Lids and Hat Zone names. The Company believes the acquisition has enhanced its strategic development and prospects for growth. The Company funded the acquisition and associated expenses with a $100.0 million, five-year term loan and the balance from cash on hand.

$175.0 million Credit Facility

On April 1, 2004, the Company entered into new credit facilities totaling $175.0 million with 10 banks, led by Bank of America, N.A., as Administrative Agent, to fund a portion of the purchase price for the Hat World acquisition and to replace its existing revolving credit facility. The $175.0 million facility consists of a $100.0 million, five-year term loan and a $75.0 million five-year revolving credit facility. The agreement governing the facilities expires April 1, 2009. See Note 7 to the Consolidated Financial Statements.

Restructuring and Other Charges

The Company recorded a pretax charge to earnings of $0.6 million in the fourth quarter of Fiscal 2005. The charge was primarily for lease terminations of six Jarman stores and retail store asset impairments. These lease terminations were part of a plan announced by the Company in the fourth quarter of Fiscal 2004 to close 48 stores in Fiscal 2005.

The Company recorded a pretax charge to earnings of $0.7 million in the third quarter of Fiscal 2005. The charge was primarily for lease terminations of four Jarman stores and retail store asset impairments.

The Company recorded a pretax credit to earnings of $0.2 million in the second quarter of Fiscal 2005. The credit was primarily for the recognition of a gain on the curtailment of the Company’s defined benefit pension plan, offset by charges for retail store asset impairments and lease terminations of four Jarman stores.

The Company recorded a pretax charge to earnings of $0.1 million in the first quarter of Fiscal 2005. The charge was primarily for lease terminations of six Jarman stores.

The Company recorded a pretax charge to earnings of $2.0 million ($1.2 million net of tax) in the fourth quarter of Fiscal 2004. The charge included $3.8 million in asset impairments related to underperforming retail stores identified as suitable for closing if acceptable lease terminations could be negotiated, most of which were Jarman stores. The charge is net of recognition of $1.8 million of excess restructuring provisions relating to facility shutdown costs originally accrued in Fiscal 2002. In accordance with SFAS No. 146, the Company revised its estimated liability and reduced the lease obligation during the period that the early lease termination was contractually obtained.

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The Company recorded a pretax charge to earnings of $2.8 million ($1.7 million net of tax) in the fourth quarter of Fiscal 2003. The charge included $2.7 million in asset impairments related to 14 underperforming retail stores identified as suitable for closing if acceptable lease terminations could be negotiated, the payments included in the restructuring provision related to the termination of one of those leases, and $0.1 million in severance payments. The majority of these costs related to the Johnston & Murphy division.

4 1/8% Convertible Subordinated Debentures due 2023

On June 24, 2003 and June 26, 2003, the Company issued a total of $86.3 million of 4 1/8% Convertible Subordinated Debentures due June 15, 2023. During the second quarter ended August 2, 2003, the Company used the net proceeds of $83 million and approximately $23 million in additional cash to repay all of the Company’s 5 1/2% convertible subordinated notes due 2005, including accrued interest payable and expenses incurred in connection therewith resulting in a loss on early retirement of debt of $2.6 million ($1.6 million redemption premium and $1.0 million write-off of unamortized deferred note expense) reflected in the Company’s second quarter results. See Note 7 to the Consolidated Financial Statements for additional information.

Minimum Pension Liability Adjustment

The return on pension plan assets was a gain of $8.4 million for Fiscal 2005 compared to $15.9 million in Fiscal 2004. The interest rate used to measure benefit obligations decreased from 6.125% to 5.75% in Fiscal 2005. As a result of the decrease in interest rates, plan assets were less than the accumulated benefit obligation, resulting in a pension liability of $28.3 million on the balance sheet compared to $25.6 million last year and a minimum pension liability adjustment of $0.5 million (net of tax) in other comprehensive income in shareholders’ equity. Depending upon future interest rates and returns on plan assets, and other known and unknown factors, there can be no assurance that additional adjustments in future periods will not be required.

Share Repurchase Program

In total, the Company’s board of directors has authorized the repurchase of 7.5 million shares of the Company’s common stock since the third quarter of Fiscal 1999. As of January 29, 2005, the Company had repurchased 7.1 million shares at a cost of $71.3 million pursuant to all authorizations. There were 398,300 shares remaining to be repurchased under these authorizations as of January 29, 2005. The board has subsequently reduced the repurchase authorization to 100,000 shares in view of the Hat World acquisition. The Company did not repurchase any shares during Fiscal 2005.

Discontinued Operations

For the year ended January 29, 2005, the Company recorded an additional charge to earnings of $0.3 million ($0.2 million net of tax) reflected in discontinued operations, including $1.0 million for anticipated costs of environmental remedial alternatives related to two manufacturing facilities formerly operated by the Company, offset by a $0.7 million gain for excess provisions to prior discontinued operations. See Note 14 to the Consolidated Financial Statements for additional information.

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In the fourth quarter ended January 31, 2004, the Company recorded an additional charge to earnings of $1.4 million ($0.9 million net of tax) reflected in discontinued operations, including $0.6 million for the Company’s former Volunteer Leather tannery in Whitehall, Michigan, and $0.8 million primarily for additional costs of a remedial investigation and feasibility study at its former knitting mill in New York. See Note 14 to the Consolidated Financial Statements for additional information.

Critical Accounting Policies

Inventory Valuation

As discussed in Note 1 to the Consolidated Financial Statements, the Company values its inventories at the lower of cost or market.

In its wholesale operations, cost is determined using the first-in, first-out (FIFO) method. Market is determined using a system of analysis which evaluates inventory at the stock number level based on factors such as inventory turn, average selling price, inventory level, and selling prices reflected in future orders. The Company provides reserves when the inventory has not been marked down to market based on current selling prices or when the inventory is not turning and is not expected to turn at levels satisfactory to the Company.

In its retail operations, other than the Hat World segment, the Company employs the retail inventory method, applying average cost-to-retail ratios to the retail value of inventories. Under the retail inventory method, valuing inventory at the lower of cost or market is achieved as markdowns are taken or accrued as a reduction of the retail value of inventories.

Inherent in the retail inventory method are subjective judgments and estimates including merchandise mark-on, markups, markdowns, and shrinkage. These judgments and estimates, coupled with the fact that the retail inventory method is an averaging process, could produce a range of cost figures. To reduce the risk of inaccuracy and to ensure consistent presentation, the Company employs the retail inventory method in multiple subclasses of inventory with similar gross margin, and analyzes markdown requirements at the stock number level based on factors such as inventory turn, av