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BROWN SHOE COMPANY, INC. 2003 FORM 10-K


FORM 10-K

United States Securities and Exchange Commission
Washington, D.C. 20549

ANNUAL REPORT PURSUANT TO SECTION 13 OR 15(d) OF THE

SECURITIES EXCHANGE ACT OF 1934
For the fiscal year ended January 31, 2004
Commission file number 1-2191

(BROWN SHOE COMPANY, INC. LOGO)

BROWN SHOE COMPANY, INC.

(Exact name of registrant as specified in its charter)
     
New York   43-0197190
(State or other jurisdiction of incorporation or organization)   (IRS Employer Identification Number)
 
8300 Maryland Avenue   63105
St. Louis, Missouri   (Zip Code)
(Address of principal executive offices)    

(314) 854-4000

(Registrant’s telephone number, including area code)

Securities Registered Pursuant to Section 12(b) of the Act:

     
Title of each class
  Name of each exchange on which registered
Common Stock — par value $3.75 a share with Common Stock Purchase Rights
  New York Stock Exchange
Chicago Stock Exchange

Securities Registered Pursuant to Section 12(g) of the Act: None

Indicate by checkmark whether the registrant: (1) has filed all reports required to be filed by Section 13 or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934 during the preceding 12 months (or for such shorter period that the registrant was required to file such reports) and (2) has been subject to such filing requirements for the past 90 days. Yes þ          No o

Indicate by checkmark if disclosure of delinquent filers pursuant to Item 405 of Regulation S-K is not contained herein, and will not be contained, to the best of registrant’s knowledge, in definitive proxy or information statements incorporated by reference in Part III of this Form 10-K or any amendment to this Form 10-K. þ

Indicate by checkmark whether the registrant is an accelerated filer (as defined in Exchange Act Rule 12b-2). Yes þ          No o

The aggregate market value of the voting stock held by non-affiliates of the registrant as of August 2, 2003, the last business day of the registrant’s most recently completed second fiscal quarter, was approximately $524.7 million.

As of February 28, 2004, 18,085,089 common shares were outstanding.

Documents Incorporated by Reference

Portions of the proxy statement for the annual meeting of shareholders to be held May 27, 2004 are incorporated by reference into Part III.



BROWN SHOE COMPANY, INC. 2003 FORM 10-K


INDEX

               
        Page  

   Business     3  
   Properties     13  
   Legal Proceedings     13  
   Submission of Matters to a Vote of Security Holders     14  
 
           

   Market for Registrant’s Common Equity and Related Shareholder Matters     14  
   Selected Financial Data     15  
   Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Operations and Financial Condition     16  
   Quantitative and Qualitative Disclosures About Market Risk     28  
   Financial Statements and Supplementary Data     30  
       Report of Independent Auditors     30  
       Consolidated Balance Sheets     31  
       Consolidated Earnings     32  
       Consolidated Cash Flows     33  
       Consolidated Shareholders’ Equity     34  
       Notes to Consolidated Financial Statements     35  
       Schedule II — Valuation and Qualifying Accounts     56  
   Changes in and Disagreements with Accountants on Accounting and Financial Disclosure     57  
   Controls and Procedures     57  
 
           

   Directors and Executive Officers of the Registrant     57  
   Executive Compensation     58  
   Security Ownership of Certain Beneficial Owners and Management and Related Shareholder Matters     58  
   Certain Relationships and Related Transactions     58  
   Principal Accountant Fees and Services     58  
 
           

   Exhibits, Financial Statement Schedules, and Reports on Form 8-K     59  
 EX-3.(B) Amended & Restated Bylaws
 EX-21 Subsidiaries
 EX-23 Consent of Independent Auditors
 EX-31.1 Rule 13a-14(a)/15d-14(a) Certification
 EX-31.2 Rule 13a-14(a)/15d-14(a) Certification
 EX-32.1 Section 1350 Certification

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PART I

 
ITEM 1 BUSINESS

Brown Shoe Company, Inc., founded in 1878 and incorporated in 1913, operates in the footwear industry. Current activities include the operation of retail shoe stores and the sourcing and marketing of footwear for women, men and children. Our business is seasonal in nature due to consumer spending patterns, with higher back-to-school, Easter and Christmas holiday season sales. Traditionally, the third fiscal quarter accounts for a substantial portion of our earnings for the year.

During 2003, categories of footwear sales were approximately 60% women’s, 27% men’s and 13% children’s. This composition has remained relatively constant over the past few years. Approximately 69% of 2003 footwear sales were made at retail compared to 69% in 2002 and 71% in 2001. See Note 6 of the consolidated financial statements for additional information regarding the Company’s business segments and financial information by geographic area.

We had approximately 11,600 full-time and part-time employees as of January 31, 2004. We employed approximately 120 employees engaged in the warehousing of footwear in the United States under a union contract, which will expire in September 2005. In Canada, we employed 13 warehousing employees under a union contract, which expires in October 2004. The Canadian manufacturing facility, which closed in March 2004, employed approximately 275 union employees.

Unless the context otherwise requires, “we”, “us”, “our” or “the Company” refers to the business of Brown Shoe Company, Inc. and its subsidiaries.

RETAIL OPERATIONS


Our retail operations at January 31, 2004 included 1,271 retail shoe stores in the United States and Canada. The number of our retail footwear stores at the end of each of the last three fiscal years is as follows:
                           

2003 2002 2001

Famous Footwear
                       
 
Family footwear stores which feature a wide selection of brand-name, value-priced footwear; located in shopping centers, outlet malls and regional malls in the U.S., Puerto Rico and Guam. Includes stores operated under the Famous Footwear, Factory Brand Shoes, Supermarket of Shoes and Warehouse Shoes names
    893       918       920  
Naturalizer
                       
 
Stores selling primarily the Naturalizer brand of women’s footwear; located in regional malls, shopping centers and outlet malls in the U.S. and Canada
    362       373       440  
F.X. LaSalle
                       
 
Stores selling women’s and men’s better-grade footwear in major regional malls in Canada
    16       16       16  

 
Total
    1,271       1,307       1,376  

With many organizations operating retail shoe stores and departments, we compete in a highly fragmented market. Competitors include local, regional and national shoe store chains, department stores, discount stores, mass merchandisers and numerous independent retail operators of various sizes. Quality, customer service, store location, merchandise selection, advertising and pricing are important components of retail competition.

Famous Footwear

Famous Footwear, with 893 stores at the end of fiscal 2003 and sales of $1.1 billion in fiscal 2003, is America’s largest footwear chain selling branded value-priced footwear for the entire family, based on the number of stores it operates and sales volume compiled by the Company from published information of its direct competitors. We acquired Famous Footwear in 1981 as a 32-store chain and now also operate under such names as Factory Brand Shoes, Supermarket of Shoes and Warehouse Shoes.

Famous Footwear stores feature a wide selection of brand-name, value-priced athletic, casual and dress shoes for the entire family. Brands carried include, among others, Nike, Skechers, New Balance, adidas, Reebok, K-Swiss, Aerosoles, Naturalizer, Brown Shoe, LifeStride, Mudd, Connie and Rockport. We work closely with our vendors to

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provide our customers with fresh product and, in some cases, product exclusively designed for and available only in our stores.

Famous Footwear stores are located in strip shopping centers as well as outlet malls and regional malls in all 50 states, Puerto Rico and Guam. The breakdown by venue is as follows at the end of fiscal 2003 and 2002:

                 

January 31, 2004 February 1, 2003

Strip centers
    522       535  
Outlet malls
    191       196  
Regional malls
    180       187  

      893       918  

The stores open at the end of fiscal 2003 averaged approximately 7,000 square feet compared to an average of 6,700 square feet for stores open at the end of fiscal 2002. Total square footage at the end of fiscal 2003 increased 0.9% to 6.2 million compared to the end of fiscal 2002. The increase in total square footage and in the average store size reflects the Company’s initiative to reposition a portion of Famous Footwear’s real estate portfolio by moving from 5,000- to 6,000-square-foot stores to approximately 8,000-square-foot stores in strip shopping centers. Plans are to open approximately 70 stores in fiscal 2004, while closing approximately 50 stores.

Sales per square foot were $172 in fiscal 2003, which is down 2.8% from $177 in fiscal 2002. This decrease reflects the same-store sales decline of 2.4% in fiscal 2003 and lower productivity per square foot in the new stores opened. Same-store sales changes are calculated by comparing the sales in stores that have been open at least 13 months.

Famous Footwear relies on allocation systems and processes that utilize allocation criteria, customer profiles and inventory data in an effort to ensure stores are adequately stocked with products and to differentiate the needs of each store based on location, customer profiles or other factors. Famous Footwear’s in-store point-of-sale systems provide detailed sales transaction data to the main office in Madison, Wisconsin, for daily analysis and update of the perpetual inventory and product allocation systems. These systems also are used for training employees and communicating between the stores and the main office.

In fiscal 2001, we embarked upon an initiative named IMPACT (Improved Performance and Competitive Transformation), which focused on reengineering the Famous Footwear buying, merchandising and allocation functions. We initiated new processes and recruited new talent in an effort to deliver fresher, more popular brands and styles to customers. This process starts with increased testing to identify emerging styles. As a result of this testing and knowledge, orders are placed closer to the selling season, and product is flowed through distribution centers and stores in smaller quantities and in more frequent intervals. The goal of this initiative is to have the right shoes at the right time for our customers, significantly increase inventory turns and reduce base inventories.

In fiscal 2002 and 2003, we achieved the objectives of this initiative. We significantly improved the aging of the inventory compared to the end of fiscal 2001 and improved inventory turns, and customers purchased more current season merchandise, which led to higher gross profit rates. We achieved reductions in the base level of inventories. The processes initiated as part of IMPACT continued to drive down inventory levels during 2003. At the end of fiscal 2003, inventories per square foot of retail space were 26% lower than they were 36 months earlier. With two distribution centers, located in Sun Prairie, Wisconsin, and Lebanon, Tennessee, Famous Footwear’s distribution systems allow for merchandise to be delivered to each store weekly or on a more frequent basis.

Famous Footwear’s marketing program includes newspaper, radio and television advertising, in-store signage and database marketing, all of which are designed to further develop and reinforce the Famous Footwear concept with the consumer. Marketing and advertising programs are tailored on a region-by-region basis to reach target customers. Famous Footwear utilizes a database marketing program, which targets and rewards frequent customers with product discounts and other promotions. In addition, we time certain advertising campaigns to correspond to regional differences such as the important back-to-school season, which begins at various times throughout the country. In fiscal 2003, we spent approximately $32 million to communicate Famous Footwear’s philosophy: delivering to the customer the best value on quality, branded footwear.

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Naturalizer

The Naturalizer retail stores are showcases for our flagship brand of women’s shoes. These stores are designed and merchandised to appeal to the Naturalizer customer, who is style- and comfort-conscious and who seeks quality and value in her footwear selections. In addition, the Company has repositioned its styles to focus on a younger, more active woman. The Naturalizer stores offer a selection of women’s footwear styles, including dress, casual, boots and sandals, primarily under the Naturalizer brand. The Naturalizer brand is one of North America’s leading women’s footwear brands, based on its market share in department stores as reported by the NPD Group/ NPD Fashionworld Point-of-Sale (hereafter “NPD Group, Inc.”), providing stylish, comfortable and quality footwear in a variety of patterns and sizes. Retail price points are typically between $50 and $60 per pair.

We operate 208 Naturalizer stores in the United States and 154 stores in Canada. Of the total 362 stores, 293 are located almost entirely in regional malls, with a few stores having street locations, and average approximately 1,200 square feet in size. Sixty-nine are located in outlet malls and average approximately 2,600 square feet in size. Total square footage at the end of fiscal 2003 was 531,000 compared to 548,000 in fiscal 2002. Sales per square foot, using constant exchange rates for the Canadian dollar, were $301 in both fiscal 2003 and fiscal 2002.

In fiscal 2003, we opened 4 Naturalizer stores and closed 15. In fiscal 2002, we closed a total of 89 Naturalizer stores while opening 22. Most of these closings occurred under an initiative announced in late fiscal 2001 to close underperforming stores. We are planning to open approximately 16 new Naturalizer stores and close approximately 16 stores in 2004.

Marketing programs for the Naturalizer stores have complemented our Naturalizer brand advertising, building on the brand’s consumer recognition and reinforcing the brand’s added focus on style, comfort and quality. Naturalizer utilizes a database marketing program, which targets frequent customers primarily through catalogs, which are mailed four times per year and which display the brand’s current product. Customers can purchase the product in these catalogs from the Company’s stores, via the Internet at www.Naturalizer.com, or by telephone to our Consumer Services call center.

F.X. LaSalle

We operate 16 F.X. LaSalle retail stores, primarily in the Montreal, Canada market, that sell better-grade men’s and women’s branded and private-label footwear. This footwear, primarily imported from Italy, retails at price points ranging from $100 to $250 per pair. These stores average approximately 2,100 square feet. Sales per square foot were $314 in fiscal 2003 and $345 in fiscal 2002, using constant exchange rates for the Canadian dollar.

E-Commerce

We own a majority interest in Shoes.com, Inc., a multi-brand Internet e-tailing company. In addition, a FamousFootwear.com site operates as a Famous Footwear e-tailing store. These sites offer footwear and accessories to men, women and children that include Company branded and licensed footwear as well as footwear purchased from outside suppliers and certain merchandise that is sold in Famous Footwear stores.

We also operate Naturalizer.com, which offers substantially the same product selection to consumers as our domestic Naturalizer retail stores. This site functions as a retail outlet for the online consumer and serves as another brand-building vehicle for Naturalizer.

All of these e-commerce sites utilize our distribution network and information systems. Information on these Web sites does not constitute part of this report.

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WHOLESALE OPERATIONS


Our Wholesale operations design and market branded, licensed and private-label dress, casual and athletic footwear for women, men and children at a variety of price points to over 2,000 retailers, including department stores, mass merchandisers, national chains and independent retailers throughout the United States and Canada. The division is a resource for many of the nation’s largest retailers, including Wal-Mart, Payless ShoeSource, Target, The May Company, Federated, Dillard’s, Sak’s, Nordstrom, Meijer, Sears and Famous Footwear, as well as The Bay and Wal-Mart in Canada. We also sell product to a variety of international retail customers and certain distributors. The vast majority of the division’s customers also sell shoes purchased from competing footwear suppliers.

In fiscal 2003, the division provided its customers with approximately 72 million pairs of shoes. Substantially all of this footwear was imported through our Sourcing division, except for those pairs produced at the Company-owned manufacturing facility in Canada, which closed in March 2004.

Our sales force solicits wholesale orders for shoes and is generally responsible for managing our relationships with wholesale customers. We generally place orders as a result of these sales efforts before the shoes are sourced, with delivery generally within three to four months thereafter. We sell footwear to wholesale customers on both a first-cost and landed basis. First-cost sales are those in which we obtain title to footwear from our overseas suppliers and typically relinquish title to customers at a designated overseas port. Landed sales are those in which we obtain title to the footwear from our overseas suppliers and maintain title until the footwear clears United States customs and is shipped to our wholesale customers. We carry inventories of certain high-volume styles, particularly in the Naturalizer, LifeStride and Dr. Scholl’s lines, to allow prompt shipment on reorders.

In addition to orders placed through our sales force, the Wholesale division provides its retail customers the ability to check directly inventory of all wholesale product in our distribution centers, place orders and track expected product arrivals over its business-to-business Internet site, BrownShoeOnline.com. Approximately 900 retailers utilize this e-commerce tool. In addition, we provide these retailers with our “E-direct” system that allows them to sell out-of-stock product, which we then ship directly to the consumer’s home.

Our major owned brands include Naturalizer, LifeStride, Buster Brown, Connie, Fanfare and Brown Shoe. Each of our brands is targeted to a specific customer segment representing different styles and taste levels at different price points.

Introduced in 1927, Naturalizer is one of the nation’s leading women’s footwear brands and is our flagship brand. Naturalizer products emphasize relevant and up-to-date styling with quality, value, comfort and fit. Naturalizer footwear is sold in department stores, independent shoe stores and our Famous Footwear and Naturalizer retail stores. The brand has increased its market share from 4.7% in 2002 to 4.9% in 2003, representing the No. 3 market share position within department stores at January 31, 2004 as reported by the NPD Group, Inc.

LifeStride is a leading entry-level price point, women’s brand sold in department stores offering contemporary styling. LifeStride is focused on providing the consumer with “stylized casual” footwear at price points of $30 to $50 per pair. In 2003, the brand achieved a 2.1% department store market share, per the NPD Group, Inc., compared to 1.9% in 2002.

The Buster Brown brand of children’s footwear includes Buster Brown “classic” footwear offered to retailers including The May Company and Famous Footwear. We are capitalizing on the strength and recognition of the Buster Brown brand by marketing licensed and branded children’s footwear under the Buster Brown & Co. umbrella. We sell these products to mass merchandisers including Wal-Mart, Payless ShoeSource and Target. Licensed products include, among others, Barbie, Mary-Kate and Ashley, Spider-Man and Bob the Builder. The Buster Brown & Co. umbrella provides customers with the assurance that these licensed products contain the quality that they are accustomed to receiving from Buster Brown shoes.

Products sold under license agreements, which are generally for an initial term of two to three years and subject to renewal, were responsible for approximately 10%, 9% and 8% of consolidated sales in fiscal 2003, 2002 and 2001, respectively.

In addition to the above-mentioned children’s licenses, we have a long-term license agreement, which is renewable through 2014, to market the Dr. Scholl’s brand of affordable casual, athletic and work shoes for women and men

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both in the United States and Canada. This footwear is primarily distributed through mass merchandisers. We also sell the Original Dr. Scholl’s Exercise Sandal and a related line of footwear under this license to department stores, national chains and independent retailers.

In 2001, our Wholesale division launched a collection of women’s shoes — Carlos by Carlos Santana — to major department stores. This footwear is being marketed under a license agreement with guitarist Carlos Santana, which is renewable through December 2006. This product represents our most fashion-forward line and is distributed in approximately 330 department store doors and 300 specialty stores.

We also have a license agreement, which is renewable through December 2009, for the HOT KISS label for junior footwear to complement the apparel line with the same name. This line is sold in several department stores and Famous Footwear.

In February 2004, we entered into an exclusive three-year license agreement, which is renewable through 2013, to design, source and market men’s, women’s and children’s footwear at wholesale under the Bass brand. We expect the license agreement to expand our footwear brand portfolio, greatly strengthen our offering in branded men’s footwear and provide an entry into the casual and outdoor categories.

We continue to build on and take advantage of the heritage and consumer recognition of our traditional brands. Marketing teams are responsible for the development and implementation of marketing programs for each brand, both for us and for our retail customers. In fiscal 2003, we spent approximately $16 million in advertising and marketing support primarily for our Naturalizer and LifeStride brands, primarily through cooperative advertising with our wholesale customers. We continually focus on enhancing the effectiveness of these marketing efforts through market research, product development and marketing communications.

At February 28, 2004, our wholesale operations had a backlog of unfilled orders of approximately $166 million, including approximately $16 million from the recently acquired Bass license, compared to $135 million on March 1, 2003. Most orders are for delivery within the next 90 to 120 days, and although orders are subject to cancellation, we have not experienced significant cancellations in the past. The backlog at a particular time is affected by a number of factors, including seasonality, the continuing trend among customers to reduce the lead time on their orders and, in some cases, the timing of licensed product movie releases. Accordingly, a comparison of backlog from period to period is not necessarily meaningful and may not be indicative of eventual actual shipments.

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The following is a listing of the brands and licensed products we sell:

         

Women’s Men’s and Athletic Children’s

AirStep
Bass(1)
Basswood
Bootalinos
b.u.m. equipment(2)
Carlos by Carlos Santana(3)
Connie
Connie Too
Dr. Scholl’s(4)
Eurosole
Eurostep
Exalt
Extremes by Naturalizer
Fanfares
F.X. LaSalle
FX
Francois Xavier Collection
Hot Kiss(5)
LifeStride
LS Studio
Marquise
Maserati
Naturalizer
NaturalSport
NightLife
Opale
Original Dr. Scholl’s(4)
TX Traction
Vision Comfort
  Bass(1)
Basswood
Big Country
Brown Shoe
b.u.m. equipment(2)
Dr. Scholl’s(4)
F.X. LaSalle
FX
Francois Xavier Collection
Natural Soul
Regal
TX Traction
  Airborne
Astro Boy(6)
Baby Gund(7)
Barbie(8)
Bass(1)
Blue Jean Teddy(9)
Bob the Builder(10)
b.u.m. equipment(2)
Buster Brown
Cat In The Hat(11)
Chill Chasers by Buster Brown
Hamtaro(12)
Incredible Hulk(13)
Looney Tunes(14)
Mary-Kate and Ashley(15)
Miffy and Friends(16)
Mijos(17)
Mucha Lucha(14)
Original Dr. Scholl’s(4)
Red Goose
Spider-Man(13)
Spider-Man 2(18)
Spidey and Friends(13)
Spy Kids 3(19)
Super Baby(20)
Supergirl(20)
Superman(20)
Sweet Kids
T.R.E.A.T.S.
Yum Pop(21)

As denoted, these brands are used with permission from and, in most cases, are registered trademarks of:

     
(1) Phillips-Van Heusen Corporation
(2) BUM Equipment LLC
(3) Guts & Grace Records, Inc.
(4) Schering-Plough Healthcare Products, Inc.
(5) Hot Kiss, Inc.
(6) Adelaide Productions, Inc.
(7) Gund, Inc.
(8) Mattel, Inc.
(9) Springs Licensing Group, Inc.
(10) HIT Entertainment PLC
(11) Universal Studios Licensing LLP
(12) ShogaKuKan Productions (USA), Inc.
  (13) Marvel Characters, Inc.
(14) Warners Bros. Consumer Products, a division of Time Warner
Entertainment Company, LP
(15) Dualstar Consumer Products, LLC
(16) Big Tent Entertainment LLC
(17) Gonzales Graphics
(18) Spider-Man Merchandising LP
(19) Dimension Films, a division of Miramax Film Corporation
(20) DC Comics, Warner Bros. Consumer Products, a division of
Time Warner Entertainment Company, LP
(21) Cosmic Debris Etc., Inc.

All other brands are owned by and, in most cases, are registered trademarks of Brown Shoe Company, Inc.

Brown Shoe Sourcing

The Brown Shoe Sourcing division sources substantially all of the footwear globally for our Wholesale division and Naturalizer Retail division and a portion of the footwear sold by Famous Footwear. The division, which in 2003 sourced 71.6 million pairs of shoes, has developed a global sourcing capability through its relationships with approximately 90 third-party independent footwear manufacturers and, in certain countries, utilizes an agent to facilitate and manage the development, production and shipment of product. Management attributes its ability to achieve consistent quality, competitive prices and on-time delivery to the breadth of our established relationships. We do not have contractual commitments with these suppliers.

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We have sourcing offices in Hong Kong, China, Brazil, Indonesia, Italy, Taiwan and Mexico. Our structure enables us to source footwear at various price levels from significant shoe manufacturing regions of the world. In 2003, more than 80% of the footwear we sourced was from manufacturing facilities in China. We believe we have the ability to shift sourcing to alternative countries, over time, based upon trade conditions, economic advantages, production capabilities and other factors, if conditions warrant. The following table provides an overview of our foreign sourcing in 2003:

     

Country Millions of Pairs

China
  59.2
Brazil
  10.1
Italy
  1.2
Indonesia
  0.7
All Other
  0.4

Total
  71.6

We monitor the quality of the components of our footwear products prior to production and inspect prototypes of each footwear product before production runs are commenced. We also perform random in-line quality control checks during production and before footwear leaves the manufacturing facility.

We maintain separate design teams for each of our brands. These teams are responsible for the creation and development of new product styles. Our designers monitor trends in apparel and footwear fashion and work closely with retailers to identify consumer footwear preferences. From a design center in Florence, Italy, we capture European influences like heel shapes and fabrics. Our Italian design center works closely with our line builders in the United States, who blend them with the latest U.S. fashion trends. When a new style is created, our designers work closely with independent footwear manufacturers to translate our designs into new footwear styles.

RISK FACTORS


Certain statements in this Form 10-K, as well as other statements made by us from time to time, contain forward-looking statements within the meaning of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995. Actual results could differ materially. The considerations listed below represent certain important factors we believe could cause such results to differ. These considerations are not intended to represent a complete list of the general or specific risks that may affect the Company. It should be recognized that other risks (including those described in Item 7 — “Management’s Discussion and Analysis”) may be significant, presently or in the future, and the risks set forth below may affect us to a greater extent than indicated. We disclaim any intent or obligation to update these forward-looking statements.

Competition and Changes in Consumer Preferences

Competition is intense in the footwear industry. Certain of our competitors are larger and have substantially greater resources than we do. Our success depends upon our ability to remain competitive in the areas of style, price and quality, among others, and in part on our ability to anticipate and respond to changing merchandise and fashion trends and consumer preferences and demands in a timely manner.

Furthermore, consumer preferences and purchasing patterns may be influenced by consumers’ disposable income. Consequently, the success of our operations may depend to a significant extent upon a number of factors affecting disposable income, including general economic conditions and factors such as employment, business conditions, consumer confidence, interest rates and taxation.

Reliance on Foreign Sources of Production

General

We rely entirely on broad-based foreign sourcing for our footwear products. We source footwear products from independent third-party manufacturing facilities located in China and Brazil and to a lesser extent from Indonesia, Italy and Mexico. Typically, we are a major customer of these third-party manufacturing facilities. We believe our relationships with such third-party manufacturing facilities provide us with a competitive advantage; thus, our future results will partly depend on maintaining our close working relationships with our principal manufacturers.

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As is common in the industry, we do not have any long-term contracts with our independent third-party foreign manufacturers. We cannot ensure that we will not experience difficulties with such manufacturers, including reduction in the availability of production capacity, failure to meet production deadlines or increases in manufacturing costs. Foreign manufacturing is subject to a number of risks, including work stoppages, transportation delays and interruptions, political instability, expropriation, nationalization, foreign currency fluctuations, changing economic conditions, the imposition of tariffs, import and export controls and other non-tariff barriers and changes in governmental policies.

Further, our products depend on the availability of leather. Any significant shortage of quantities or increases in leather costs could have a material adverse effect on our business and results of operations.

China

We rely heavily on manufacturing facilities located in China. Historically, the trade relationship between the United States and China has not had a material adverse effect on our business, financial condition or results of operations. There have been, however, and may in the future be, threats to the trade relationships between the United States and China, including threats by the United States to limit trade relations with China. There can be no assurance the trade relationship between the United States and China will not worsen, and if it does worsen, there can be no assurance our business, financial condition or results of operations will not be materially adversely affected thereby. Further, we cannot predict the effect that changes in the economic and political conditions in China could have on the economics of doing business with Chinese manufacturers. Although we believe we could find alternative manufacturing sources for those products we currently source from China through our existing relationships with independent third-party manufacturing facilities in other countries, the loss of a substantial portion of our Chinese manufacturing capacity would have a material adverse effect on the Company.

Currency

Although we purchase products from certain foreign manufacturers in United States dollars and otherwise engage in foreign currency hedging transactions, we cannot ensure that we will not experience cost variations with respect to exchange rate changes. We cannot predict whether additional United States or foreign customs quotas, duties, taxes or other changes or restrictions will be imposed upon the importation of non-domestically produced products in the future or what effect such actions could have on our business, financial condition or results of operations.

Customer Concentration

Our wholesale customers include department stores and mass merchandisers. Several of our customers control more than one department store and/or mass merchandiser chain. While we believe purchasing decisions in many cases are made independently by each department store or mass merchandiser chain under such common ownership, a decision by the controlling owner of a group of department stores and/or mass merchandisers or any other significant customer to decrease the amount of footwear products purchased from us could have a material adverse effect on our business, financial condition or results of operations.

In addition, the retail industry has periodically experienced consolidation and other ownership changes, and in the future, our wholesale customers may consolidate, restructure, reorganize or realign, any of which could decrease the number of stores that carry our products.

Intellectual Property Risks

Licenses

The success of our Wholesale division has to date been due, in part, to our ability to attract and retain licensors which have strong, well-recognized brands and trademarks. Our license agreements are generally for an initial term of two to three years, subject to renewal, but even where we have longer-term licenses or has an option to renew a license, such license is dependent upon us achieving certain results in marketing the licensed material. While we believe our relationships with our existing licensors are good and we believe we will generally be able to renew our existing licenses and obtain new licenses in the future, there can be no assurance we will be able to renew our current licenses or obtain new licenses to replace lost licenses. In addition, certain of our license agreements are not exclusive, and new or existing competitors may obtain similar licenses.

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Trademarks

We believe that our trademarks and trade names are important to our business and are generally sufficient to permit us to carry on our business as presently conducted and planned. We cannot, however, know whether we will be able to secure protection for our intellectual property in the future or if that protection will be adequate for future operations. Further, we face the risk of ineffective protection of intellectual property rights in jurisdictions where we source and distribute our products. We also cannot be certain that our activities do not infringe on the proprietary rights of others. If we are compelled to prosecute infringing parties, defend our intellectual property or defend ourselves from intellectual property claims made by others, we may face significant expenses and liability.

Dependence on Major Branded Suppliers

Our Famous Footwear retail chain purchases a substantial portion of our footwear products from major branded suppliers. While we believe our relationships with our current suppliers is good, the loss of any of our major suppliers or product developed exclusively for Famous Footwear could have a material adverse effect on our business, financial condition or results of operations. As is common in the industry, we do not have any long-term contracts with our suppliers. In addition, the success of our financial performance is dependent on the ability of Famous Footwear to obtain product from its suppliers on a timely basis and on acceptable terms.

Litigation and Other Regulatory Proceedings

We are a defendant from time to time in lawsuits and regulatory actions relating to our business. Due to the inherent uncertainties of litigation and regulatory proceedings, we cannot accurately predict the ultimate outcome of any such proceedings. An unfavorable outcome could have a material adverse impact on our business, financial condition and results of operations. In addition, regardless of the outcome of any litigation or regulatory proceedings, such proceedings are expensive and will require that we devote substantial resources and executive time to defend the Company.

AVAILABLE INFORMATION


Our Internet address is www.brownshoe.com. Our Internet address is included in this annual report on Form 10-K as an inactive textual reference only. The information contained on our Web site is not incorporated by reference into this annual report on Form 10-K and should not be considered part of this report. We file annual, quarterly and current reports, proxy statements and other information with the Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC). We make available free of charge our annual report on Form 10-K, quarterly reports on Form 10-Q, current reports on Form 8-K and amendments to those reports filed or furnished, as required by Section 13(a) or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934, through our Internet Web site as soon as reasonably practicable after we electronically file such material with or furnish it to the SEC. You may access these SEC filings via the hyperlink to a third-party SEC filings Web site that we provide on our Web site.

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EXECUTIVE OFFICERS OF THE REGISTRANT


The following is a list of the names and ages of the executive officers of the Company and of the offices held by each such person. There is no family relationship between any of the named persons. The terms of the following executive officers will expire in May 2004.
             

Name Age Current Position

Ronald A. Fromm
    53     Chairman of the Board and Chief Executive Officer
 
Byron D. Norfleet
    42     President, Naturalizer Division
 
Michael I. Oberlander
    35     Vice President, General Counsel and Corporate Secretary
 
Gary M. Rich
    53     President, Brown Shoe Wholesale Division
 
Andrew M. Rosen
    53     Senior Vice President, Chief Financial Officer and Treasurer
 
Richard C. Schumacher
    56     Senior Vice President and Chief Accounting Officer
 
David H. Schwartz
    58     Chief Administrative Officer and President, Brown Shoe International Division
 
Diane M. Sullivan
    48     President
 
Joseph W. Wood
    56     President, Famous Footwear Division

The period of service of each officer in the positions listed and other business experience are set forth below.

Ronald A. Fromm, Chairman of the Board and Chief Executive Officer of the Company since January 2004. Chairman of the Board, President and Chief Executive Officer of the Company from January 1999 to December 2003. Vice President of the Company from April 1998 to January 1999. Executive Vice President, Famous Footwear from September 1992 to March 1998.

Byron D. Norfleet, President, Naturalizer Division since August 2000. Senior Vice President and General Manager, Naturalizer Retail from July 1998 to August 2000. Series of management positions with Genesco, Inc. from 1984 through 1998, most recently as Vice President — Jarman Lease.

Michael I. Oberlander, Vice President, General Counsel and Corporate Secretary since September 2000. Attorney, Bryan Cave LLP from 1993 to September 2000.

Gary M. Rich, President, Brown Shoe Wholesale since August 2000. President, Brown Pagoda from March 1993 to August 2000.

Andrew M. Rosen, Senior Vice President, Chief Financial Officer and Treasurer of the Company since October 1999. Senior Vice President and Treasurer of the Company from March 1999 to October 1999. Vice President and Treasurer of the Company from January 1992 to March 1999.

Richard C. Schumacher, Senior Vice President and Chief Accounting Officer since March 2003. Vice President and Chief Accounting Officer from March 2002 to March 2003. Vice President and Controller of the Company from June 1994 to March 2002.

David H. Schwartz, Chief Administrative Officer since March 2004, Chief Operating Officer from March 2002 to March 2004, and President, Brown Shoe International since August 2000. President, Brown Sourcing from February 1996 to August 2000.

Diane M. Sullivan, President, Brown Shoe Company, Inc. since January 2004. Vice Chairman of the Footwear Group of Phillips-Van Heusen, September 2001 to December 2003. Series of management positions with Stride Rite Corporation, from April 1995 to September 2001, most recently as President and Chief Operating Officer.

Joseph W. Wood, President, Famous Footwear since January 2002. Executive Vice President — Merchandise for Finish Line chain of athletic footwear stores from April 2000 to December 2001. Senior Vice President — Merchandise and Marketing for Finish Line from March 1992 to April 2000.

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ITEM 2 PROPERTIES

We own our principal executive, sales and administrative offices in Clayton (St. Louis), Missouri. The Famous Footwear division operates from a leased office building in Madison, Wisconsin. The Canadian wholesale division operates from an owned office building in Perth, Ontario, and the retail division from leased office space in Laval, Quebec. A leased sales office and showroom is maintained in New York, New York.

Most of the footwear sold through our domestic wholesale divisions is processed through two Company-owned distribution centers in Sikeston, Missouri, and Fredericktown, Missouri, which have 720,000 and 465,000 square feet, including mezzanine levels, respectively. As a result of the acquisition of the Bass license and inventory and anticipated growth in our landed business, we expect we will need to expand our wholesale warehousing capacity in 2004. In fiscal 2003, we operated one manufacturing facility and a 150,000-square-foot distribution facility in Perth, Ontario. In March 2004, we closed the manufacturing facility located in Perth, Ontario. We own these Canadian facilities in addition to another Canadian manufacturing facility which was closed during 2002.

Our retail footwear operations are conducted throughout the United States, Canada, Puerto Rico and Guam and involve the operation of 1,271 shoe stores, including 170 in Canada. All store locations are leased, with approximately one-half having renewal options. Famous Footwear operates a leased 750,000-square-foot distribution center, including a mezzanine level, in Sun Prairie, Wisconsin, and a leased 800,000-square-foot distribution center, including mezzanine levels, in Lebanon, Tennessee. Our Canadian retailing division operates a leased 21,000-square-foot distribution center, which is adjacent to the division’s office in Laval, Quebec.

Our Brown Shoe Sourcing division leases office space in Hong Kong, China, Taiwan, Italy, Indonesia and Mexico. We have entered into a lease for a new office and sample-making facility in China, which will be occupied and begin operations in mid-2004.

We also own a building in Denver, Colorado, which is leased to a third party, and land in New York. See Item 3, “Legal Proceedings,” for further discussion of these properties.

 
ITEM 3 LEGAL PROCEEDINGS

We are involved in legal proceedings and litigation arising in the ordinary course of business. In the opinion of management, the outcome of such ordinary course of business proceedings and litigation currently pending will not have a material adverse effect on our results of operations or financial position.

We are involved in environmental remediation and ongoing compliance activities at several sites. We are remediating, under the oversight of Colorado authorities, contamination at and beneath our owned facility in Colorado (also known as the “Redfield” site) and groundwater and indoor air in residential neighborhoods adjacent to and near the property, which have been affected by solvents previously used at the site and surrounding facilities. During fiscal 2003, 2002 and 2001, we incurred charges of $0.8 million, $4.1 million and $1.4 million, respectively, related to this remediation.

In March 2000, a class action lawsuit was filed in Colorado State Court (District Court for the City and County of Denver) related to the Redfield site described above against one of our subsidiaries, a prior operator at the site and two individuals (the Antolovich class action). Plaintiffs, certain current and former residents living in an area adjacent to the Redfield site, alleged claims for trespass, nuisance, strict liability, unjust enrichment, negligence and exemplary damages arising from the alleged release of solvents that are contaminating the groundwater and indoor air in certain areas adjacent to the site. In December 2003, a jury returned a verdict finding us negligent and awarding the class plaintiffs $1.0 million in damages. We have recorded this award along with the estimated cost of associated pretrial interest and the estimated costs of sanctions imposed on us by the court resulting from pretrial discovery disputes between the parties. We recorded a total pretax charge of $3.1 million for these matters in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2003 and carried an accrued liability for such amount at January 31, 2004. Several of these matters are still pending before the court, and the ultimate outcome and cost to us may vary.

We have also filed suit in Federal District Court in Denver against a number of former owner/operators of the Redfield site as well as surrounding businesses seeking recovery of amounts spent responding to the contamination at and around the Redfield site. We have reached settlement agreements with several of these defendants in this

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action and currently anticipate the case will be tried against the remaining defendants in late 2004. We have also filed a contribution action in Colorado State Court against the Colorado Department of Transportation, which owns and operates a facility adjacent to the Redfield site. That case is not yet set for trial.

We have also filed suit against our insurance carriers seeking recovery of the costs incurred for investigation and remediation of the Redfield site, the damages awarded in the Antolovich class action and other relief. In prior years, we recorded an anticipated recovery of $4.5 million for remediation costs. We believe insurance coverage in place entitles us to reimbursement for more than the recovery recorded. While the insurance companies are contesting their indemnity obligations, we believe the recorded recovery is supported by the fact that the limits of the insurance policies at issue exceed the amount of the recorded recovery, and certain insurance companies have made offers to settle the claim. We are unable to estimate the ultimate recovery from our insurers, but are pursuing resolution of our claims.

We have completed our remediation efforts at our closed New York tannery and two associated landfills. In 1995, state environmental authorities reclassified the status of these sites as being properly closed and requiring only continued maintenance and monitoring over the next 20 years. In addition, various federal and state authorities have identified the Company as a potentially responsible party for remediation at certain other landfills.

Based on information currently available, we had an accrued liability of $10.4 million as of January 31, 2004 to complete the cleanup, maintenance and monitoring at all sites. The ultimate cost may vary.

While we currently do not operate manufacturing facilities, prior operations included numerous manufacturing and other facilities for which we may have responsibility under various environmental laws to address conditions that may be identified in the future.

 
ITEM 4 SUBMISSION OF MATTERS TO A VOTE OF SECURITY HOLDERS

No matter was submitted to a vote of shareholders during the fourth quarter of fiscal 2003.

PART II

 
ITEM 5 MARKET FOR REGISTRANT’S COMMON EQUITY AND RELATED SHAREHOLDER MATTERS

Our common stock is listed on the New York Stock Exchange (the “NYSE”) and the Chicago Stock Exchange (the “CSE”) under the trading symbol “BWS.” As of January 31, 2004, the Company has approximately 4,800 stockholders of record. The following table sets forth for each fiscal quarter during 2003 and 2002 the high and low sales prices per share of common stock as reported on the NYSE and the dividends paid.
                                                 

2003 2002


Dividends Dividends
Low High Paid Low High Paid

1st Quarter
    $25.10       $30.36       $0.10       $14.81       $21.36       $0.10  
 
2nd Quarter
    25.00       31.75       0.10       19.20       28.10       0.10  
 
3rd Quarter
    28.30       36.25       0.10       13.80       22.45       0.10  
 
4th Quarter
    31.85       39.73       0.10       19.66       29.39       0.10  

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ITEM 6 SELECTED FINANCIAL DATA


The selected financial data set forth below should be read in conjunction with the consolidated financial statements and notes thereto and the other information contained elsewhere in this report.
                                         
2003 2002 2001 2000 1999
($ thousands, except per share amounts) (52 Weeks) (52 Weeks) (52 Weeks) (53 Weeks) (52 Weeks)

Operations:
                                       
Net sales
  $ 1,832,108     $ 1,841,443     $ 1,755,848     $ 1,684,859     $ 1,594,131  
Cost of goods sold
    1,073,442       1,100,654       1,089,549       1,002,727       967,161  

Gross profit
    758,666       740,789       666,299       682,132       626,970  

Selling and administrative expenses
    681,585       667,456       653,063       613,197       559,740